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Latest topics : latest Blog date 8th Feb 2009

Caring for the old - an unconventional way to get out of economic recession
Classic liners won't benefit from the "Heritage" effect
Hamburg Senate : the next in a long line of government agencies to hinder preservation !
Conference delegates take to the water but will they be back for a traditional excursion ?
Raising funds for paddle steamers need not be at the expense of sick children
Steam engine protected - but only if put in a museum, not a ship !
Fondues and Spaghetti lead to larger excursion ship fleets.
Chavs cause chaos on cruise liner !
Waverley's Clyde Timetable - Too much of the same old thing ?
Even low scrap prices cannot save classic liners.

8th Feb 2009 : CARING FOR THE OLD - AN UNCONVENTIONAL WAY TO GET OUT OF ECONOMIC RECESSION

It will be interesting to see what the effects of the economic downturn will be on steamer operators' bottom lines in 2009.  Looking at the initial reports for 2008 issued by the major Swiss operators, it seems that the recent good growth of passenger numbers has tailed off, but showed no substantial decline. 2009 could be different. Many operators will find that their fuel costs have declined substantially, but passenger numbers could be hit as fewer people spend less on holidays and locals less on discretionary leisure activities. One can only hope that the economic problems are of a temporary nature, but we don't want to see operators ordering new ships to chase the hoped-for growth like many have been doing in the last few years.

Fortunately, the addition of new tonnage on the Swiss Lakes, for example has not led to the withdrawal of of paddle steamers. It has not led to the withdrawal of older motor vessels either (with a few limited exceptions). If passenger numbers are not going to rise and rise, there is going to have to be a period of consolidation, and if operators do find themselves with excessively large fleets, maybe some ships do have to go to the breakers.

I saw in my daily newspaper today that the German government is paying substantial cash sums to owners to trade in older vehicles for lower-emission new cars, thus helping the environment, but more pointedly, trying to bale the beleaguered motor industry out by artificially stimulating demand. This has been tried before. "New for old" has been a well-worn policy of many governments to try and bring their countries out of recession and this has particularly applied to ships.

It is in Germany that we have recently found "new" diesel engines going into the hull of PS Goethe to replace her "old" steam equipment which may help the environment (marginally) and has provided a bit of work for the manufacturers of the new machinery. Clearly this was not undertaken in response to any incentive from the German government, but if pressure was put to bear, what would this mean for paddle steamer fleets ?

If future demand will not sustain existing fleets, which ships would have to go ?  If governments pressurised operators into modernising their fleets a the same time, the pressure could become unbearable.

Paddle steamers are valued individuals, not one of thousands of a particular design of car which rolled off a production line. Once lost it is lost forever. It seems to me. as an enthusiast, that there are more important things than seeing everything in strict financial terms. Rather than throw the old out in favour of the new, why not save and expand jobs in the rapidly disappearing craft sector, refurbishing ships for long term use !

6th Feb 2009 : CLASIC LINERS WON'T BENEFIT FROM THE "HERITAGE EFFECT" ............

You may have noticed that I mention cruise liners quite a lot at the moment. They are not covered on this website in any detail for obvious reasons, but whilst there is not much paddle steamer news over the winter months, there has been quite a lot of activity regarding the fate of the last steam-powered cruise liners to attract interest.

To keep up to date I sometimes check out forums on cruise websites where there are sections for discussing the fate of the classic liners. These forums are quite interesting as there are a number of regular posters who bemoan the inevitable loss of these classic liners and who feel powerless to do anything about it. There are also other posters who reply that these people should "get a life" and accept that change is the natual way of things and that they should just be glad that some ships even reached 50 years old. In fact some say that the older vessels are definitely not up to standard despite frequent re-furbishments and that 99.9% of cruising clientele would much rather be on a brand new mega-liner than an older and smaller classic ship. The new ships provide much more variety in terms of entertainment facilities and, it is expected, better passenger accommodation.

In reality it was always the same for passengers on the type of ships this website is most interested in. Technological advances in the 19th century meant that ships were being replaced at a rapid rate and many had a relatively short working life. As new seasons opened, passengers looked forward to new vessels - bigger, faster and more comfortable - to get them where they wanted faster than ever before. No doubt many held fond memories of the steamers which retired gracefully, but the new tonnage was embraced with great enthusiasm.

So why are things different now ?  Nostalgia really began to kick in in the 1970s in a period following the "revolutionary" 1960s when modernism and looking forward to a brave new world was particularly in vogue. Whilst enthusiasts had sensed what was happening throufghout the 60s, it only later became clear that a whole type of ship which had been with us for over 100 years was on the way out.  It was not only steam which was disappearing from the engine room, it was the passenger ship itself as the new vessels brought into replace the old were basically massive floating car parks, albeit with functional and efficient passenger accomodation and refreshment facilities.

Now we have a strong band of enthusiast support and a good deal of general public support for "classic" vessels, especially those driven by paddles and powered by steam engines whose high visibility provides an additional attraction to passengers during their journey. A fair percentage of passengers spend at least some time hanging over the engine gallery railings marvelling at the pounding pistons and swinging cranks.

It is here where excursion vessels and cruise liners differ. The enormous turbines of the cruise liners are buried deep in the bowels of the ship and sealed off from public view and do not provide part of the "experience". Who on board worries what type of power plant lies down below ? That is not something which concerns them whilst they look for the four star experience of shopping malls, cinemas, wave pools and posh restaurants.

No wonder the major cruise companies have little hesitation in getting rid of their older ships, including their last steamers, in eager anticipation of taking delivery of the next generation of mega-liners, especially if their running costs per head of customer can be reduced to the absolute minimum and their revenues maximised.

3rd Feb 2009 : HAMBURG SENATE : THE NEXT IN A LONG LINE OF GOVERNMENT AGENCIES TO HINDER PRESERVATION !

We now learn that the famous and historically important steam cruise liner Maxim Gorky is now off Suez en route to its demise at India despite investors in the city of Hamburg having the finance available to buy her before she reaches the beach and her inevitable end. What seems to be the problem is that the Senate of Hamburg, a city state on Germany's north coast and birthplace of the ship concerned, has refused permission for her to be moored at a suitable place in the city's docks.

Maxim Gorky may be a big ship, but Hamburg's docks are big too, and by historical standards pretty empty. In the past it was a teeming dock near the mouth of the River Elbe with passenger and cargo ships bringing enormous wealth and growth to the city. Few of the ships which passed through would have had the sleek lines of Maxim Gorky or generate the awe and admiration which she does.

The local investors were developing plans to operate her as a hotel and conference centre and to establish her as an attraction in its own right. Many supporters believed that bringing the ship back to Hamburg would help bring visitors to the city and also provide a focal point for the city's pride in its maritime heritage.

The issue may have hinged on the price at which a berth might be made available, but surely this and other minor issues could have been overcome by negotiation. It seems however, that the main point of contention was the actual location for the ship. For it to be a financial success, the project's promoters required it to have a berth close to the city centre and not "off the beaten track". Stuck away in a remote location she would not fulfill the intended role successfully. Do the politicians in charge of the city of Hamburg have a problem, with a large liner prominently visible at their waterside?

It seems that the authorities in Hamburg now are only acting like local authorities have done consistently in the past. I am reminded of what has happened in my country, Great Britain, in the last year or two.

Only last year, the turbine-powered former car ferry Caledonian Princess (then known as Tuxedo Princess) was towed away from its berth under the Tyne Bridge at Gateshead where she was a popular night club for people from Gateshead and Newcastle,  linked by the famous steel bridge. The local authorities there saw no place for the ship (admittedly not the prettiest, but still not bad at all) and wished the site clearing so they could "redevelop" alongside the relatively new "Sage" concert hall, presumably with new flats, offices, shops and trendy bars. The ship did have a bit of a reputation for attracting revellers who, at the end of the night might have been a little worse for wear, but she was popular and loved by many.

Clearly the local authorities saw the prospect of money from the nearby site's developers as attractive in itself, but it does seem that many people regarded a ship being moored in such a location as an incongrous eyesore. Reading local internet forums, it seems that many people were pleased to see her go.

She is not alone. Only shortly before, the steam-powered former car ferry Dover (latterly known as Tuxedo Princess) was moved from its spot in the disused Middlesbrough town dock because it did not fit into the town's plans for their so-called "Middlehaven" development. This is only just in construction, but appears to be heading for a new soul-less life of underused offices featuring avant-garde designs which will, soon after construction, be regarded as not such a good idea after all ..............

Whilst Tuxedo Royale still languishes laid up at Hartlepool, Tuxedo Princess has gone for scrapping in Turkey, further reducing the number of historical (and steam powered vessels) still surviving in the U.K.

Another turbine, SS Manxman,  the last of its particular class to survive, languishes in terminal deterioration because well-established plans for her renaissance were effectively brought to an end by the company in control of the redevelopment of the docks in Liverpool, probably the largest redundant dockland complex in the worlds. Many of Liverpool's docks are in close proximity to the city centre and ideally placed for tasteful development and re-use. Liverpool celebrated being the European City of Culture in 2008, but this was a year which coincided with the decision not to allow the SS Manxman project to continue - but to develop the docks for the usual soul-less "developments" and also to reduce the depth of the dock basins to make them suitable for private yacht marinas. Are these the only boats which "they" like to see around ? Are these the type of boats which the planners and politicians own themselves ?

Clearly the "authorities" and "planners" wherever they may be have no desire for larger ships to be moored anywhere near their cities - but plenty of enthusiasm for flats, offices and shops, and in the case of Gateshead, the rather unusually-shaped (monstrosity?) of the Sage.

Are the planners in another world to us - or are they only reflecting the desires and needs of the general public which they represent ? If both, then there is no chance that anything of our maritime heritage will be preserved. Even if only one of these exists, I doubt we can look forward to any successes in static preservation in the U.K.    It seems that Germany is no different either.

16th Jan 2009 : CONFERENCE DELEGATES TAKE TO THE WATER BUT WILL THEY RETURN FOR A TRADITIONAL EXCURSION?

I am alerted to quite a few new developments when I read through my copy of the excellent Swiss enthusiast magazine "Dampferzeitung". It  not only reports on paddle steamers, but keeps everyone updated with general cruising opportunities on the Swiss lakes and in neighbouring areas. Through this I keep in touch with ships and services which I would not normally research in other ways.

I have very mixed feelings about one of the new vessels of which I saw pictures for the first time in the latest edition. MV Sonnenkonigin is the brand new vessel on Lake Constance  and it is a really striking vessel. It seems that some avant-garde designer was given free rein to come up with a vessel (for that is what I shall call it) which does not look remotely like any other around.  It got me thinking about the most recent vessels introduced on Lake Zurich and on the Rhine. Earlier this year, when cruising down lake Zurich on the paddler Stadt Rapperswil, we crossed paths with the ZSG's newest arrival, MV Panta Rhei - a colossus of a vessel when seen bearing down on you and an apparently top-heavy pile of glass boxes as it glides past. I have not yet seen the Rhine's newest (and finest?), the Rhein-Energie, one of whose first tasks was to transport the recently inaugurated German pope along the Rhine during his visit to Cologne a couple of years back. It is, however, an enormous catamaran quite unlike the other boats (as I shall call them) in the KD fleet.

The Sonnenkonigin does not look at all like the Rhein-Energie from the outside, but it is what is inside which is what makes their design the most worrying. Inside, they are like one enormous concert hall, with stage and stalls on the main deck and the upper decks arranged as balconies with seats and tables set to afford a full view of the stage like the grand and upper circles of a classic theatre . Despite the decks being enclosed by a glass box, or bubble depending on the exact design of each vessel, it seems that the interior is designed for look in rather than looking out. Both ships are now marketed as "Event Ships", ie for conferences, concerts and such like. In such case it is hardly worth having too much deck space (although these vessels do have ample amount) or the vast amount of glazing which presumably adds to the cost of the vessel.  These vessels appear to be to excursion ships what the modern floating boxes which now pass as cruise liners are to the classic liners of the past.

It seems that we are getting away from the essence of a boat trip - ie.getting from one place to another (and back) or at least an excursion where the scenery around about is more of the attraction than what is going on aboard. In the case of Sonnenkonigin, which is owned by the entrepreneur who now owns the Austrian based fleet of motor ships on Lake Constance in conjunction with a group of Swiss investors,  she is not going to run on any scheduled services and her draught is too great to access many piers on the lake.

What is the real attraction of a floating conference or concert? There are numerous places to hold such events on dry land.  Will it change people's perspective of what a boat trip really is about - to the detriment of the traditional excursion steamer ?  Alternatively, is it a welcome development which will bring people "back to the water" and grow the market for a "real" steamer trip ?

15th Jan 09 : RAISING FUNDS FOR PADDLE STEAMERS NEED NOT BE AT THE EXPENSE OF SICK CHILDREN

It appears that the UK's Paddle Steamer Preservation Society (PSPS)  is to embark on a renewed campaign to gather funds to support Waverley.Waverley's early-season paddle shaft problem, extended periods of poor weather, and escalating fuel costs played havoc with the finances of Waverley Excursions Ltd, the PSPS-owned company which operates the paddler and its running-mate MV Balmoral.Of course, this is nothing new. Fundraising is one of the PSPS's main on-going activities, but every so often there is an extra push to replenish dwindling reserves.  I generally chip in with a bit of cash here and there to do my bit.  I do not, however, stand and shake a collecting tin in the high street or commit to do some totally unnecessary activity and hand round sponsorship forms to anyone whom I have acquaintance with.

Whilst some of my friends and colleagues scale peaks or run marathons for some very worthy charity, I do not reciprocate and ask them to pledge an equivalent amount to the Paddle Steamer Preservation Society or other such charity.  All this sponsoring or other ways of shaming you into contributing raises important issues about funding of any activity : who should fund it, by how much and should non-commercial activities be supported  at all ?

It is hard to donate to someone else's health or poverty charity then return a few days later asking for equal support for the paddle steamers.99 percent of the population would think of you as some sort of freak, deeply concerned with a pile of old metal and without a heart for needy children or the seriously ill.  It is not quite like that, but that is how it may seem.

Although cultural and heritage charities, the classification to which the PSPS and other transport related charitable trusts belong, are supposedly there to educate the public  as well as the provide recreation, it is hard to compare this minority interest with health and social issues which seriously affect the lives of a much wider part of the population.

So, let's all  lets all invest in comprehensive private health care insurance and lets have our taxes raised substantially so that central authorities can provide much more in the way of health and welfare services and do away with the need for "proper" charities.

Let's leave some money left over for discretionary spending. A bit of money to spend on what they like to make their lives a bit special is what people look for and can make them happy.  After all, does a bit of happiness not help you to be more healthy ? However, there is no reason why this discretionary spending does not go the way of paddle steamers. Paying for a ticket for a cruise is one way. You get something for something. Just like when you pay for a cinema ticket, go for a posh meal or buy a bit of designer clothing. Donating without anything material in return is just as valid a way to spend the discretionary money. Knowing that a beautiful paddle steamer is saved for posterity may actually be more satisfying for many than getting the latest of fashion-house trends hanging in one's wardrobe.

I would agree that  "they" whoever they may be or "the state" which we presume "they" actually are, should not be supporting paddle steamers - or many other things for that matter. By all means let "them" look after heath and welfare, but if that is the case, please let's not keep it as a choice between paddle steamers or dying children when it comes to distributing the sponsorship forms.

14th Jan 09 : STEAM ENGINE PROTECTED - BUT ONLY IF PUT IN A MUSEUM - AND NOT A SHIP !

I was slightly bemused, but definitely not amused, to learn that the competent (in one sense of the word) authorities in Germany have slapped a "Denkmalschutz" order on the old steam engines of MPV Goethe which were removed from the last Rhine paddler after she closed her 2008 season in early October.  This is the equivalent of "listing" a building in the UK - protection on the grounds of historical importance. The engines are due to be displayed in the Cologne city museum for the enjoyment and education of future generations.

The Goethe's owners, the long-established Koln-Dusseldorfer Company, now owned by Premicon AG, the major shipping organisation, only announced the removal of the engines mid-way through the 2008 season, leaving little time for enthusiasts to mount a concerted campaign to save the ship as a steamer.  Although the campaign was doomed to failure it was not helped by the apparent decision of the same authorities not to grant protected status to the vessel itself ! Surely there were grounds to do so. She was the last operational paddle steamer on the German stretch of the Rhine. Granted, not a lot remained of the original vessel, built in 1917, except the hull and the engines, but that is not surprising since she was sunk near the end of World War II and heavily rebuilt in the early 1950s after being raised. Apparently it was the effect of a subsequent rebuilding which took place shortly before she was reactivated in 1996 after being retired from service in 1989 which disqualified her from protected status.

She is, of course, not at all like she appeared in 1917, but probably no less so than the 1952 rebuild, yet had she stayed like she was in 1989 she might well have achieved protected status by virtue of her appearance as being over 50 years old ! Even if it led to excess weight which badly affected her performance, the 1990s rebuild made her an exceptionally comfortable vessel, much more suited to modern standards than as originally built when she was a part-passenger and part-cargo steamer. Nevertheless, she was marketed as a "nostalgia" ship on  "nostalgia" cruises through the section of the Rhine designated as a world heritage site. In fact she will continue to be marketed as such even with her brand new diesel engines !

It does seem strange that engines exhibited statically in the stuffy environment of a museum can be protected whilst engines operating in a suitable ship, doing what they should be doing and providing a rare opportunity for history to actually come to life, are not......

It also raises another issue. Why does something have to be over 50 years old, for example, to qualify for protection, whilst something of quality does not even though in a few years time, it too will become sufficiently "old" to qualify in its own right ? By contrast, many Swiss paddle steamers are already covered as national historic monuments and whilst they may look "old" most of their fabric has been replaced over the years and very few fully resemble the form they had when first built.

Why does something have to be gone before it becomes of value? We have spent millions raising and preserving old sunken vessels (Mary Rose and Vasa are two high-profile examples which come to mind) and we could well spend more in future saving these and other vessels which are by no means complete. Why not keep the best of what we have now so that in years to come we will not have to do the same? Or, is it the thrill of rediscovering something lost which really excites the imagination ?

13th Jan 09 : FONDUES AND SPAGHETTI  LEAD TO LARGER EXCURSION SHIP FLEETS

Last night I came across my copy of the timetable for the SGV services on lake Lucerne which I had left out amongst some of my bedside reading magazines. It is a lovely handy brochure and always worth a look even after returning from a trip to the Swiss lakes just to remind oneself what good marketing material can look like. It is quite a thick booklet despite only having three fold-out timetables for summer, winter and spring/autumn schedules. Granted that everything is, most usefully in three languages, but most of the pages relate to special cruises : Fondue cruises, Spaghetti cruises, Wine-growers' cruises, breakfast cruises. The list goes on.

These cruises appear to be quite popular and remind me of something I was reading back in the summer where the operators of the paddle steamer fleet on nearby Lake Zurich reported that the growth of these imaginative cruises had allowed them to expand their fleet, raise additional revenue, and spread their costs by operating vessels more intensively outside the main summer season. If you look at it, the excursion ship fleets on these lakes are growing, and although the new vessels coming into service a motor-powered, the owners are also maintaining their paddlers in fine condition and refurbishing them for long term use when necessary.

In Britain, we have two coastal cruising vessels of any substantial size and although there are numerous small motor vessels offering local trips from various cities, there is nothing on the scale of what happens at Zurich or Lucerne. In Britain, we are not seeing any growth in our fleet of major excursion vessels. Whilst Zurich is a major world city, it is reasonably small by British standards. Lucerne is much smaller - and outside of the main season it does not benefit from the numerous tourists it attracts in mid-summer.  Despite this, they still seem to manage to run special cruises whether it is in the early morning light for breakfast, or in the evening dusk and starlit sky for fonudes or spaghetti.

Could we in the UK expand our fleet by offering the same?  In theory there is no reason why not.  Waverley has offered a limited range of "Showboat"cruises in the evenings after cruises with a scheduled early return which follows a long tradition on the Clyde of trying to exploit this revenue source. The Swiss also have their "Dance Ships" but these are classy affairs - and quite expensive.  So too are the fondues and the spaghetti.

Swiss ships are known for their high cuisine even on regular daytime excursion whilst on Waverley and Balmoral we are used to the "works canteen" style cafeteria aboard. We get a hearty plateful of fish and chips or such like for a reasonable price as we dive down to the main deck to get our hunger satisfied before heading back on deck to get the sea air blowing through our hair. There is quite a different attitude to food aboard ship. Does it reflect differing tastes or expectations - or do we just get what is given, making a trip aboard unattractive for those wishing to partake of a gourmet meal whilst gazing out of large picture windows at the passing scenery ?

Back to special cruises, though. Surely the bankers of the city of London are no different to the so-called "gnomes" of Zurich and, despite the current and surely short-lived depression in the financial services industry, would flock to a water-borne meal of some exotic continental speciality whilst cruising from Canary Wharf past Greenwich and the Thames barrier  - and pay a tidy price to swell the coffers of the resident paddle steamer operator ?  Maybe this is one for PS Medway Queen to tap into once she is back in service. However, she has no deck saloons which could double up as a restaurant, but - hold on - the absolute perfect  vessel for this is already on the Thames, but permanently moored a few low bridges upstream from where she might best be located : TS Queen Mary !

12th Jan 09 : "CHAVS" CAUSE CHAOS ON CRUISE LINER !

I read in my Sunday paper that the "credit crunch" which has caused most cruise lines to sell off empty cabins on their cruises at deeply discounted prices, has allegedly led to families coming on board who disturb the usual tranquil life aboard with their alcohol-fuelled antics. Apparently it was no fun for regular cruise-goers on P&O's new mega-liner Ventura as she sailed round the Caribbean over the New Year. One passenger was quoted as referring to the invasion of "lager louts" who would normally have holidayed in Benidorm. Another referred to "chavs", a name often used in Britain to describe a person with, let's say, no "class". We certainly don't normally connect cruising holidays with such antics, but if the price of the cruise falls to a point where it is as cheap to cruise as to go to beach resort, then why should you expect anything different? In fact, it is surprising that this sort of problem is not already commonplace on cruise liners.

At least on a paddle steamer, you are unlikely to have this problem. Anyone likely to be drinking is likely to be back from their cruise before they get too drunk, or at least off at some unsuspecting port of call for the afternoon. We don't link paddle steamer excursions with drunken behaviour or an invasion of "chavs" amongst the regular clientele of seasoned sea-dogs. However, it was back in early 1880s that things had got so bad on excursions out of Glasgow, that members of the Temperance Movement in Scotland, dedicated to eradicating the evils of alcohol consumption from society, had built and operated a special first-class-only boat on which no alcohol was sold and on which it was hoped that the more "genteel" class of person could enjoy a pleasurable cruise around the Firth of Clyde. In fact fights amongst the "masses" going for a day out at one of the resorts on the Clyde coast became quite commonplace - and much more obviously so than the odd incident on a week-long journey on a 3000-passenger liner !

I suppose that even now, there are a few who drink a few too many on a week-end steamer excursion to Dunoon or Rothesay, even since the special attraction of a steamer cruise on which bars were open whilst land-based public houses remained steadfastly closed on a Presbyterian Sunday, has long since evaporated. And where would paddle steamer operators be without the proceeds of their bar facilities? Put it this way, they would struggle to make any profit. If the economic downturn turns down any further, perhaps the "lager louts" will start to inhabit paddle steamers rather than cruise liners, which would presumably be a mixed blessing all around.

11th Jan 09 : WAVERLEY'S CLYDE TIMETABLE : TOO MUCH OF THE SAME OLD THING ?

I recently got hold of the draft copy of Waverley's Western Isles and Clyde sailing programme for 2009. I could not help but be a bit disappointed. Only 5 days in early May and only three cruising days if you want to start and finish your cruise at a port in the Western Isles. Not much time to see some of Europe's finest scenery only at a time when tourists have not yet arrived. Popular cruises no doubt, but definitely for Waverley afficionados only. However, I looked forward to seeing what was in store on the Clyde in the main summer season. Over the last few months I had gained the impression that there would be a more varied programme than usual and there were suggestions that a new landing facility would be available at Arrochar to allow Waverley to call at the village at the head of Loch Long to where she spent much of her early life providing a ferry service. I had also read that the pier at Loch Fyne port of Tarbert would no longer be available for Waverley to call at. Maybe this was the chance to change a well-established Clyde programme which, quite frankly was becoming a bit stale.

I know that the Waverley organisation does a magnificent job in planning its timetable, but the Clyde is one area where they can be a bit more adventurous due to the relatively large number of piers available, the large number of potential routes around the islands and up the lochs and not least, the ability to call at most piers at all states of the tide, allowing some stability and certainty to proceedings. The current timetable is said to be one which generates the most revenue for the least cost, but I desperately find myself trying to find a cruise which I have not already done - something to justify a long day trip from the north of England. Well, Tarbert is still on the timetable if only for four Tuedays of the weekly cruise from Ayr to Loch Fyne, but to my surprise I saw Ardrishaig mentioned as a port of call. Waverley cannot of been here for a long time, at least not on a scheduled service, yet this was once an important terminus for Clyde steamers taking tourists on the "Royal Route" to the Western Isles. This looked extremely interesting until it became clear that it was only down once, on a Sunday cruise in late August........ Still, better than nothing, although I always hoped that one day Inveraray, even further up Loch Fyne would return to becoming a regular destination for a Clyde Steamer. Waverley, of course, was never scheduled for the old Inveraray service in the 50s and 60s. She was regarded as too slow. Only one of the sleek turbine steamers would get there and back from Gourock in a reasonable day. Sailing from Glasgow as she does now, Waverley would have no chance. But hang on !  In mid July a Sunday service goes to Campbeltown, deep south not far short of the Mull of Kintyre and another haunt previously reserved for the turbine steamers ! This really is progress, even though it is only once in the season. Yes, there has been a fair bit of variation added to the Sunday programme, but the other days have been left much the same as they always were.

But what about Arrochar? No sign of it mentioned. Not at least until I had digested the summer timetable and had a quick look at what was planned for the three day end-of-season programme which Waverley undertakes after returning from England and before she ties up for the winter in mid October. Yes! A cruise up Loch Long, calling at Blairmore, thankfully reopened for Waverley to call at a few years ago, and Arrochar ! One hour ashore at the head of the Clyde's most fjord like loch is definitely worth getting out of bed early for - but getting to Glasgow at 10:00 am ?  In October ? Maybe not. ! Let's hope for regular calls in the summer of 2010 !

The whole situation always gets me thinking about the Waverley timetable. This is what I wrote on the discussion forum to try and stimulate debate some time before the new timetable was issued

"Waverley's Clyde schedule changes very little from year to year. Well established routes on well established days - but are you tired of this and looking for something new and different? The Waverley organisation spends a lot of time working out its timetable, but once you have one that works, is it right to stick with it year after year ? Of course, there are numerous factors to take into account when designing a timetable and WSN believe that the current one is the best compromise and the best revenue earner. Is this the case?
Have you "done" each cruise so many times that you would like something different?  Are you put off a casual cruise because of this?  Do you not make the long trips you used to so as to go on a Waverley cruise? Do you no longer spend those short weekend or week-long breaks on the Clyde because there is nothing new or different?
How about potential passengers from Glasgow, the biggest potential source of customers and the main destination in the area for foreign tourists. Are the Glasgow excursions "too early a start, too late a return and too long a day"?  On lake Geneva, the operators have found that the ideal length for a cruise is about three hours and have re-cast their timetables to accommodate this. Are far too many potential Glasgow passengers not going on a trip on Waverley because of this?  Why not start her later and bring her back earlier and go to Kilcreggan and Dunoon only? How about two three hour cruises along the Clyde estuary for "late morning" and "afternoon" sightseeers and a stop at Greenock or Kilcreggan for those interested in the architecture and those wishing to do some walking respectively - and restore "up-river" cruises for the good people of Inverclyde?
How about more "inter-resort" trips in the upper Firth to allow more flexibility to excursionists and with one vessel almost replicate the hop-on-hop-off possibilities which you might expect on lake Lucerne or lake Geneva.
Something needs to be done to restore the freshness of the Waverley programme .................or is it fine as it is ?"

10th Jan 09 : EVEN VERY LOW SCRAP STEEL PRICES CANNOT SAVE CLASSIC LINERS !
ANOTHER STEAM POWERED CLASSIC OCEAN LINER COMES TO THE END OF THE ROAD

On Jan 8th, German press reports indicated that the turbine steamer MAXIM GORKY, built in 1969 as HAMBURG at the German port of the same name, had been sold to Indian scrappers for a sum of EUR 4.2 million. This is a massive reduction on what might have been achieved in the middle of 2008. At the height of the commodity price "bubble" in the early summer of 2008, the steam-powered liner TOPAZ, built as EMPRESS OF BRITAIN was sold to Indian breakers and quickly beached at Alang. India amongst other nations was desperate for the scrap steel to power its own steel industries and happy to sell off artefacts from the ship to souvenir hunters worldwide. The speed at which ships of all types had been arriving at Alang and similar other sites had been astonishing as older tonnage made way for the glut of new cruise liners entering service each year. Noone could save the "classic" liners and new safety regulations due for implementation in 2010 made the necessary refurbishment costs prohibitive on vessels regarded as obsolete for a number of reasons. Fuelled by the steel scrap price boom, owners could get good money for their old vessels.

Then, in the autumn of 2008, commodity prices tumbled at an accelerating rate, falling to levels not seen even before the "boom" started around the beginning of 2008. Nobody was buying scrap. Shipowners would not get much for their vessels. Were we going back to the not too distant past when vessels lay unused for years awaiting better times ? No. No sooner had the commodity price collapse occurred than the so called "credit crunch" appeared. The sharp swing into recession affected all economies and economic activity began to reduce. Cruise companies suddenly found that, especially with their new mega-vessels entering service, demand for their holidays might be severely affected, so a massive round of price discounting took place to atttract custom, and most of all money, to try and pay off accumulated debts. Cash generation and retention suddenly became the main objective of the day and here is why MAXIM GORKY is suffering the same fate as TOPAZ although their selling price was at completely different endof the spectrum.

Prospects for MAXIM GORKIY surviving beyond the 2010 safety rules deadline looked good, even as winter fell in 2008. A well-known cruise entrepreneur bought the rights to the Orient Lines name and established a new company dedicated to providing cruises on traditional liners. MAXIM GORKY was lined up as the first vessel to operate for the new company and she was to called Marco Polo II. Then the world economy went into reverse. Orient Lines announced the delay of their plans which eventually became an indefinite delay then outright cancellation. There was no space for a speculative and costly venture in a declining market. Recognising her historical importance as West Germany's first newly-built liner in the post World War II era, and the last classic German steam liner in operation, interests in Hanburg had hoped that she could be saved for the city as a floating hotel, conference centre and theatre : a fitting attraction to German's foremost sea port. Now the issue is raising the cash to buy her and also securing the money needed to fit her out for her new role. Not just raising money, but making all the necessary arrangements for a new long term role would take time.  The "credit crunch" has meant that almost everyone feels less wealthy and with regard to publicly funded bodies, times are not right for big investments which might be seen by many as of no importance to them.

Although steel works are producing less steel than they were a few months ago, steel is still being produced in massive quantities and scrap is still needed as a raw material. Those who bought TOPAZ at the peak of the market might not make too much money on their investment, but those who bought MAXIM GORKY at the bottom of the market surely will. The cash was on ready offer even though it might not have been as much as the owners of the liner would have wanted. With the credit crunch on, any cash is better than nothing. MAXIM GORKY lay at a Greek port which for many years was home to hundreds of laid up vessels, but not now. Cash-strapped companies cannot afford to sit and wait. With only one possible buyer for MAXIM GORKY and no certainty that they would be able to follow up on their interest, selling to the scrapper was the obvious business solution.

Interested parties now have a matter of days to make a substantial offer, well above EUR 4.2 m, to save her from the blowtorch. If that is not forthcoming, one of the very last steam-powered liners will disappear leaving only four examples of this type of vessel. MAXIM GORKIY was the only steamer which was expected ts sail on into 2010 and beyond. The prospects for any now surviving are bleak.